About Tuxedos

 

Tuxedo Terms


Tuxedos come in three basic lapel styles
Notch, peak and shawl. Choosing one that's right for you is merely a matter of taste. These days you will find that the single breasted, notch lapel is most popular.
 
The following tuxedos are all single breasted jackets :
 
Arm Hole
The larger the armhole the looser the fit. The larger the armhole will, by pattern, shorten the in-sleeve.

Ascot Tie
A folded over look tie which is usually worn with the cutaway. Note that it must be worn with a vest.
 
Besom Pocket
A pocket which has two strips of fabric which come together to form the trim.

Bow Tie
Standard formalwear neckwear. In rental these are pre-tied. They have flat edges and are also known as a butterfly or band bow ties.

Button Stance
Position where the coat first buttons on the chest usually defined as a normal, low or high button stance.

Cadet
Cut shorter in body, armhole and sleeve length. Best used for heights under 5'5".

Cuff Links
A jewelry item which closes the cuff of the shirt. See Tuxedo Accessories.

Cummerbund
A formalwear sash worn at the waist. These are mostly pleated, however there are some designer styles which have diagonal pleats and fancy patterns. The pleats open upward. See Tuxedo Accessories.
 
Cutaway
A dark grey coat worn traditionally for morning weddings. The coat is of tailcoat length yet buttons in the front and then angles back to the tail
 
Drop
The distance in inches between the chest measurement & the waist measurement. The average man has a 6 inch drop from their chest to their waist.
 
Flap Pocket
A fabric flap which covers the opening of the pocket.
 
Four-in-Hand Tie
A traditional style necktie.
 
French Cuffs
A wide cuff that is folded back and secured with a cufflink.
 
Gorge
Low gorge/high gorge relates to where the lapel starts and the collar ends. A very low gorge is down the middle of the chest.
 
Husky
Boys cut for short to average height but heavy body frame.
 
Inseam
An inseam measurement is obtained by measuring from the pant crotch seam to where the pants should fall on the shoe. See Tuxedo Measurements.
 
Insleeve
The desired distance from the underarm cross-seam to the cuff of the jacket.
 
Lapel
The finish collar of the coat. See Tuxedo Styles.
 
Laydown Collar Shirt
A formal shirt with a fold over collar the entire way around the neck ( just like a men's dress shirt) This shirt has 1/4' pleats down the front.
 
Non-Vented
Coat completely sewn closed around the bottom. Room for movement must come from fullness within the pattern of the coat.
 
Notch Lapel
lapel is interrupted at the top with a v-like cut out.
 
Mandarin Collar Shirt
A formal shirt with a stand-up collar. This shirt has 1/2" pleats down the front.
 
Outseam
An outseam measurement is obtained by beginning at the top of the waistline and bringing the tape down to where the pant should fall on the shoe
 
Peak Lapel
The top of the lapel forms the extended point upward.
 
Pique
Birds eye fabric in white cotton or blend. Only correct fabric for shirt besom, vest and tie when wearing an ultra formal, white tie, full dress tails
 
Portly
For the heavy body frame. Recomended 2"-4" drop.
 
Portly Short
For the heavy body frame. Recomended 2"-4" drop and height under 5'7".
 
Regular Coat
Suit coat length coat which ends at the second knuckle.
 
Satin Leg Stripe
A matching color 1 1/4" stripe which runs down the side seam of all tuxedo trousers. The only tuxedo trouser which does not have the satin leg stripe is a stroller or cutaway trouser.
 
Self Top Collar
Collar material is the same as the material on the coat.
 
Shawl Lapel
The lapel is a curved and uninterrupted down to the button closure.
 
Shar-Pei
A banded long tie, like a traditional tie. The knot is wider and scrunched.
 
Stroller
This coat is cut like a regular coat as far as length. This coat has no satin lapel.
 
Studs
Jewelry inserted into the front button holes of a shirt and replaces the traditional buttons.
 
Tails/Full Dress
They body of a tailcoat is generally considered a standard fit. There is a cosmetic vent in the back of the tail portion of the coat. The armholes are tapered and thus feel tighter.
 
Triple Pleate Trouser
This trouser has 3 pleats at the waist band. The trouser also has larger thigh area.
 
Vented
7"to 8" crossover opening in the jacket. This allows room for movement and also allows the coat to be slightly form fitted.
 
Waist Coat/Eton
coat that ends at the waist.
 
Welt Pocket
A single strip of fabric which trims the pocket.
 
Windsor Tie
A banded tie with a windsor knot. It is like a tradtional tie.
 
Wing Collar Shirt
A formal shirt with no fold over collar but has collar points in the front which lay behind the tie. This shirt has 1/4" pleats down the front..


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